Undiscovered Bolgheri
Is there more to it than Sassicaia and Ornellaia?
In a recent column, I wrote about the irony of Sassicaia being so famous while Bolgheri, the region it created, remains comparatively under the radar. A look at some of London’s top restaurants confirms that Sassicaia, and fellow superstar Ornellaia, are very well represented, but beyond that, Bolgheri seems surprisingly low profile.
Even in Italian restaurants with strong regionally-focussed lists, there is a similar phenomenon, although they tend to go a little deeper, often featuring labels like Guado al Tasso or the wines of the early Bolgheri pioneers like Michele Satta and Grattamacco. But it feels like there’s certainly room for Bolgheri to grow its presence in the UK beyond the big names.
The trend towards native Italian varieties and away from Bordeaux-styled wines generally over the last decade has hit Bolgheri hard, so it’s understandable that it hasn’t been fashionable to champion it within Italy. After all, it is sometimes seen as a cuckoo in the nest of Tuscan Sangiovese. There’s just one problem with that narrative: these wines are often truly delicious.
On the subject of those pesky Bordeaux grapes, Monica Larner at The Wine Advocate posed some interesting questions in her open letter to Giacomo Tachis following his death:
Was it your intention to prove the potential of a territory with the great grapes of France so that doors would open to Italy's indigenous varieties? Was it your vision that the iconic super Tuscan wines would one day become territory-specific wines linked to places like Bolgheri and Chianti Classico? Did you foresee that Italian wine would become symbolic of territorial and varietal expression? Did you know that this would become the modern "brand" of Italian wine? Did you do this all by design?
We will never know, but one thing seems clear: given the legacy of his work, it surely wasn’t Tachis’ intention that those same historically ‘noble’ French varieties would be quietly denigrated or pushed to one side by the rise of Sangiovese or Nebbiolo, as seems to be the case among some who are prejudiced in favour of native varieties, regardless of quality in the glass.
When you taste Ornellaia and Sassicaia side by side, if anything it throws into relief how profoundly different they are, and shows how broad the stylistic bandwidth of Bolgheri actually is. Ornellaia is luxurious, imposingly glamorous, rich and hedonistic. There can be absolutely no doubt that you are in the presence of a world-class wine. Yet Sassicaia is a quieter, more discreet wine, with a sartorial structure and layered complexity that speaks more quietly but no less compellingly. Ornellaia is Gucci; Sassicaia is Hermès.
It’s good to have both, and the recent Bolgheri Anteprima 2021, organised by Nelson Pari, Italian buyer for Swig, Federico Moccia, Head Sommelier of 67 Pall Mall, and Albiera Antinori and Riccardo Binda, respectively President and Director of the Consorzio, was a great opportunity to taste both of these titans, and to take stock of what Bolgheri as a region has to offer the world from the 2021 harvest.
It’s a vintage that really impressed me with its freshness, structure and concentration. A lot of my favourite wines for the long haul had a high proportion of Cabernet Franc, whereas many of my more immediately appealing wines had a big chunk of Merlot. The use of these two varieties really makes the style of so many wines, determining where they fall on a spectrum. It’s much more important in determining the final style of the wine than the oak regime in my view, and even a small shift in the percentages in one direction or another has a big impact.
It’s certainly worth paying attention to the grape blends when thinking about to your own palate and what you might enjoy. In this respect, Bolgheri is actually quite an easy region to ‘read’ or extrapolate from data, even if you haven’t tasted the wines.
Tasting Notes
I’ve put tasting notes for my top wines from the event below, in alphabetical order. Most are available in the UK and can be found at wine-searcher.com. Where you see (V) after the score it means it is particularly good value in the context of the appellation.
Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore 2021 — 92
Cocoa powder, mint and blackberry here in an ample, fairly powerful style that is rich but balanced. Already some cured meat notes alongside grainy tannins and a pleasantly herbal touch. 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc.
Caccia al Piano Bolgheri Superiore 2021 — 94
A sophisticated and understated nose of crisp blackcurrant fruit and oregano leads into a tapered, stylish palate with chalky tannins, violet-fringed fruit and no overt wood. Long and subtle, this was discreet and intriguing. Definitely a winery I’m keen to know more about. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc.
Campo al Mare ‘Baia al Vento’ Bolgheri Superiore 2021 — 93
From a single vineyard located near Tenuta San Guido, this is ripe, smoky, almost retro with Belgian milk chocolate, fine tannins, sweet plum fruit and loads of vanilla. There’s some woody chew from the barrel work but this is enjoyably flamboyant with that merlot/cocoa powder richness on the finish. 100% Merlot.
Fabio Motta ‘Le Gonnare’ Bolgheri Superiore 2021 — 95 (V)
Delicate blackberry and blackcurrant fruit, fine tannins, crisp acidity — this is a Bolgheri that’s decidedly light on its feet, although it does feel a little tight at the moment, not that I mind that in a long-haul wine. I expect it will open out nicely after some time in bottle as there’s great harmony here. Very fine and understated in a really appealing way, this finishes long with integrated wood. Good value too. 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Giorgio Meletti Cavallari ‘Impronte’ Bolgheri Superiore 2021 — 94
A pleasingly aromatic, cool-feeling style that might be challenging if you’re used to the big, chunky style of Bolgheri from the past. I really liked it, though. There’s a lightly herbal note to the palate that’s very much for the Cabernet Franc fans, and lovely expressive red and black cherry fruit and a taut, firm but fine tannic structure. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc.
Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore 2021 — 97
Fresh blackcurrant, a touch of peppery spice, tobacco then compact, tight-grained tannins and a note of fresh cedar. Really complete with superb balance and overall harmony. Quite irresistable and yet should last twenty years without any trouble. A knockout. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese
Michele Satta ‘Piastraia’ Bolgheri Superiore 2021 — 95 (V)
Restrained with fresh red and black fruits on the nose, then fine-boned tannins and a delicate note of cedar on the crisp, linear, chiselled palate. Compact and controlled and should open out nicely with time in bottle. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Sangiovese
Orma ‘Aola di Orma’ Bolgheri Superiore 2021 — 93
Just the second vintage of this wine which is a work in progress, this had a terrific nose of dark chocolate, oregano and fresh blackberry and blueberry with good concentration and balance. Firm tannins, and worth holding on to for a year before broaching. 100% Cabernet Franc.
Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore 2021 — 96
Sticky glazed blackberries, a touch of caramelisation, buttered toast and ripe, powerful tannins soaking up the new wood. This is very typically Ornellaia, and a very distinctive style in the context of the tasting. The 2021 is broad and powerful but with loads of stuffing and mid-palate fruit. 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot.
Podere Il Castellaccio ‘Il Castellaccio’ Bolgheri Superiore 2021 — 93
Distinctly and charmingly red-fruited with lots of redcurrant, raspberry and mint with a nice suggestion of dill. It clocks in at 15% but it tasted surprisingly well-balanced on the palate to me. 100% Cabernet Franc.
Bell’aja Bolgheri Superiore 2021 — 92
Creamily rich and immediately appealing with cherry liqueur, milk chocolate, grainy tannins and sweet red and black berry fruits. Polished and long. From the San Felice stable. 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore 2021 — 96
Blackberry and cassis, but nicely defined and definitely on the fresh rather than cooked side. There’s also a touch of cocoa, some powerful tannins and a nicely integrated lick of barrique. Lots to like here and should age into great complexity. 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Cabernet Franc, 13% Merlot.
Tenuta San Guido ‘Sassicaia’ Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC — 98
Expectations were high for this; the price has gone up significantly this year. But 2021 is a glorious Sassicaia. Perfumed and delinated red fruits on the nose with plenty of raspberry, red cherry and even redcurrant. Great acids, fine, chalky tannins, notably cool alcohol on the palate with a lovely tactile grippiness balanced out by concentrated, juicy red fruit. A truly gorgeous wine, and really commendable for its finesse. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc.
Ca’Marcanda Bolgheri Rosso 2021 — 96
Fresh blackcurrant and blackberry, a hint of attractive green peppercorn, skillyfully integrated wood giving sweet spices, toast and a touch of coffee — a very complete, rich, grainy wine from the Gaja stable. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc
Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso 2021 — 92 (V)
Slightly closed on the nose, this had rather pleasingly sour, crisp red and black berry fruit on the nose, a fine, lightly extracted palate with papery tannins, and a cool, fine, tight line through the palate. 50% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Syrah.
Tenuta Sette Cieli ‘Noi4’ Bolgheri Rosso 2021— 94 (V)
Glossy fresh blackcurrant fruit but with vivid, delineated freshness on the nose, with a touch of violet and cedar. The palate is surprisingly fresh with abundant black fruit and extends the saturated, polished character of the nose. This is definitely a seductive, supple style, but importantly it doesn’t seem contrived or overly-manicured. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc.