Winebledon

If Roger Federer was a wine, what would he be?

photo by Shep McAllister via Unsplash

Wimbledon is currently in full swing and with it, the usual jamboree of British wins in the first week, middle-class patriotism and £12 Pimms.

As a child who grew up in the 1990s, I remember vividly when Conchita Martinez won against Navratilova in 1994, against all the odds. I watched from behind the sofa the gripping Graf v. Sanchez-Vicario final of 1995 as though it was a horror film. I lived through the dominance and inevitability of Pete Sampras, the tail-end of Becker and Edberg, the commentary of John Barrett and the faint sense of loneliness as the BBC coverage rolled on the second Sunday. I have been hooked ever since.

In honour of The Championships’ generous BYO policy for those going to watch the tennis (one bottle per person, if you didn’t know) I’ve compiled a list of grapes and wines to match some great champions at SW19. Why restrict yourself to matching wine and food when you can match wine to tennis players?

I’ve focussed on major Wimbledon champions so there are inevitable big-name omissions from the list but this is a whimsical exercise. You can complain to the umpire in the comments.

Let me know if you agree in the comments.

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Martina Navratilova, USA

Nine Wimbledon (singles) titles

Navratilova’s aggressive, athletic game took tennis to new heights in the 1980s, and her tally of Wimbledon titles is unsurpassed at nine. Her net game also made her a dangerous doubles opponent, gaining her an additional seven women’s and four mixed doubles titles at Wimbledon alone. Brave and sometimes rebarbative, she fled Czechoslovkia overnight in 1975, leaving her family behind, and came out as gay in 1981. She’s seen it all, and although not always lovable, she’s undeniably the queen of Wimbledon. When it comes to wine, Navratilova has the intensity and athleticism of great Rheingau riesling. Riesling can do everything a grape can possibly do, yet remains under-loved by all but the hardcore fans.

Roger Federer, Switzerland

Eight Wimbledon titles

An ugly duckling who didn’t start playing his best tennis until his 20s, Federer then went on to become Saint Wimbledon, practically the brand ambassador for tennis globally. Those early videos of him smashing rackets with very bad hair have been forgotten, and with his self-consciously aesthetic style, he embodied temperamental beauty with an undertow of arrogant swagger. Few professionals get to hit shots in their career that are as beautiful as Federer hit every match. He’s got to be red Burgundy.

Pete Sampras, USA

Seven Wimbledon titles

Before Federer, there was Pistol Pete. In the 1990s, Wimbledon was Sampras. With his oversized t-shirts, towel fluff in his Greek stubble and colossal serves he was a model of grass court efficiency, the apotheosis of serve-and-volley. He did one thing extremely well, and at his best no one could defeat him. Just like Champagne has brought the traditional method of sparkling winemaking to the highest point of refinement, Sampras perfected serve-and-volley grass court tennis and remains its greatest exponent.

Novak Djokovic, Serbia

Seven Wimbledon titles

Leaving aside Djokovic’s controversies, he has won more Slams than anyone except Margaret Court, who he is currently tied with on 24. Adaptable, mentally tough, good at everything, Djokovic has to be fine chardonnay (he even makes his own) [https://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2022/10/tennis-star-djokovic-launches-wine/], but he’s so good we’ve got to hand him white Burgundy. As far as the competition is concerned, he’s the one to beat.

Steffi Graf, Germany

Seven Wimbledon titles

Perhaps the greatest all-round player to have taken to the court on the women’s side, Fraülein Forehand won 22 Slams and is the only person to win each Slam four times. Her athletic game, vicious backhand slice and relentless forehand were well-adapted to all surfaces. Yet hampered by injury, she retired at the age of just 30, and spent many years away from the sport. Unlike so many other champions, she stood apart, didn’t join the commentary box, and didn’t seem interested in lifestyle interviews. That screams Hermitage, and mighty syrah in general, which reflects her power, intensity and seriousness.

Serena Williams, USA

Seven Wimbledon titles

The quintessential American player: hugely strong, massively skilled, relentlessly loud and undeniably great. Many have fallen to the intensity of her game. It might not be pretty, it won’t please those who long for ladylike days of old, but Serena set a new standard on the women’s tour. If Serena were a wine, she’d have to be Napa Cabernet Sauvignon.

Her sister, Venus (herself on five titles), would have to be Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon — similar, but somehow a little less loud and more classical in style.

Bjorn Borg, Sweden

Five Wimbledon titles

The man credited with making tennis sexy, Borg’s cooly professional demeanour and stylish look became iconic. When he departed the professional tour in 1981 at the age of 25 he left everyone wondering ‘what if?’ — but not before being the first player to earn more than $1 million in prize money in a single season. He is widely credited with making tennis a major global sport. So what are we drinking? He’s got to be Sassicaia and the Super Tuscans for his overall contribution to the field. Just as they transformed the quality potential of Italian fine wine, so Borg refined what it meant to play tennis and was pivotal in making it an international game with major sponsors.

Boris Becker, Germany

Three Wimbledon titles

‘Boom Boom’ Becker was just 17 when he won Wimbledon in 1985 with a big serve, big forehand combination (hence the nickname), tiny shorts and a shock of strawberry blond hair. For a player that athletic, muscular and precocious, we need to have a wine that is irresistible in youth, slightly left field and yet capable of reaching the heights: cru Beaujolais it is. Like playing Becker on grass, a good bottle is over before you know it.

John McEnroe, USA

Three Wimbledon titles

Tantrums and talent, McEnroe was an instinctive player whose net play was executed with remarkable delicacy. For many, he had the best hands at the net in the history of the game, and was as close to an artist as the sport has seen. And, let’s face it, he has gone the distance, working as a coach, gracing the commentary box and blessing us all with his inability to pronounce even the most straightforward of foreign names. What wine embodies youthful fire and matured wisdom? Vintage Port, of course.

Rod Laver, Australia

Two Wimbledon titles

The man who showed everyone else how it was done, many consider Laver to still be the greatest player to bounce a tennis ball. He dominated the 1960s and inspired generations of players around the world. He won two Wimbledon titles but this Aussie legend remained an inspiration for players as diverse as Sampras and Nadal. There’s no question: Rod Laver is classed growth Bordeaux. He may not be as relevant now as he once was, but there’s no doubting that he is one of the greats. His old matches are as fresh as a ‘61 Latour.

Andy Murray, UK

Two Wimbledon titles

Dogged Sir Andy wasn’t the easiest tennis player to love. A grinder with an attitude, his early matches were exercises in public self-loathing. But those youthful tannins have shed and Andy has gone from grumpy, shy and frankly quite hard work, to a two-time Wimbledon champion with a sound political compass, a fondness for drink and an ever-so-Scottish line in self-deprecating humour. We just needed to see him cry to remember he was human. So, what wine is he? Probably Taurasi. Be patient. Respect the beast. Give it time and a bit of love (i.e. a decanter) and you might find yourself very pleasantly surprised.

Rafa Nadal, Spain

Two Wimbledon titles

A clay court legend with a staggering 14-title record at the French Open, Nadal never flourished at Wimbledon despite winning it twice. He’s on this list for the 2008 ‘Battle at Twilight’ final against Federer which is the greatest tennis match ever played (and because he’s my favourite and it’s my list). Early in his career, everyone predicted Nadal’s intense play style would see him burnt out in just a few years. At 38, having lost so much of his career to injury, he’s still playing, if only just. He’s an old vine: gnarled, weather-beaten, low-yielding but gloriously, wonderfully alive. What grape or wine captures a Spaniard whose heart is firmly in France, whose longevity has been doubted, who loves the heat, the dirt, the passion and the grind? It’s got to be Château Rayas and garnacha/grenache. Like garnacha, Rafa might have a reputation for power and heft, but when he needs to bring a Gredos-like finesse to bear at the net, he’s shown himself one of the best at the tape.

Carlos Alcaraz, Spain

One Wimbledon title (so far)

The youngest player to win a Slam on all three surfaces, young Carlitos has Djokovic’s haircut, Federer’s panache and Nadal’s forehand. His explosive, showy play style is impossible to resist. But there’s finesse too; he can rarely resist a dropshot, especially on the forehand side. He’s working hard to live up to his reputation as the next big thing and has already been signed up to an eye-popping underwear commercial for Calvin Klein. His tennis style is powerful but also surprisingly delicate and very crowd-pleasing — Carlitos has got to be Nerello Mascalese from Etna.

Lastly, a few personal favourites, less famous at Wimbledon but I couldn’t resist:

• Jannik Sinner — a most unlikely Italian, born about as close to Austria as can be, but with a game that’s already taken him to a Slam title. A dark horse with amazing quality and potential, he’ll have to be Cabernet Franc, an imminent Italian superstar that no one quite expected. Cheval Noir, if you will.

• Dennis Shapovalov — utterly eccentric with his aerial one-handed backhand, when good he’s great and when he’s bad he’s awful. Not consistent or predictable. He’s zero-sulphur natural wine.

• Dominic Thiem — a great player whose time on court was sadly cut short (he’s retiring at the end of 2024) Thiem is a player’s player who deserved more success. White Bordeaux.

• Arancha Sanchez-Vicario — the busiest player on a tennis court. Indefatigable, she never seemed to run out of steam. Madiran.

• Justine Henin-Hardenne — perhaps the most exquisite player to pick up a racket on the women’s side. Chablis.

• Stan Wawrinka — one of the great one-handed backhands and a proper giant-killer. He’s every traditional method sparkling wine that isn’t Champagne but wants to unseat it.

• Andre Agassi — lots to like, a crowd favourite and amazingly consistent. Capable of hitting the heights. Sometimes a bit much in the hair and make-up department. Rioja.

Looking over the list, I’ve managed to leave out some of my favourite wines, so I’m taking suggestions for Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico and Barolo, not to mention Sherry and all things South African.

And, if you feel there’s someone missing, suggest your player and their wine match in the comments below.